New York City is a haven for artists, creative professionals and people with a vast array of identities. It has long been both a beacon and a sanctuary for those who want to express themselves freely. And for anyone looking for an affirming, safe space to be fitted for an outfit for a wedding or formal occasion, it also doesn’t hurt that the City is one of biggest fashion capitals in the world.
We asked three NYC designers who specialize in inclusive formal wear, which includes three-piece suits, gowns and everything in between, about their process and how to build trust with clients and accommodate specific requests. Read on to learn about their shops and approaches.
A consultation for bespoke suiting at The Tailory.
The Tailory
511 Canal St., Soho, Manhattan
Creative director Shao Yang founded the Tailory in 2014 to transform bespoke formal wear and deliver quality clothing for everyone, regardless of gender, sexual orientation, race, geography or socioeconomic status. Many shoppers seeking nonbinary or same-sex wedding formal wear head to the warm, inviting Soho studio, adorned with velvet couches and a full bar.
“As an Asian woman, I was motivated to create a more liberated and open-minded space where women, LGBTQ+ individuals and people of diverse backgrounds could express themselves authentically through custom suiting,” says Yang. “Traditional menswear and women’s wear stores create an immediate binary choice before someone even walks in the door.”
Yang emigrated from Taiwan to the United States at age 5 and dreamt of becoming a fashion designer. After graduating from the Parsons School of Design, she gathered a team of expert designers, tailors, pattern makers and other creative professionals to establish a truly customizable experience where “the starting point isn’t men’s or women’s but simply yours,” she says.
Finding garments with the right proportions can be challenging for nonbinary shoppers. For example, suits that don’t assume broad shoulders and narrow waists or formal attire that doesn’t ascribe to conventional gender perceptions. Basics like button placement and pocket design can also force people into binary choices.
Fabric is another consideration, notes Yang. Her team selects textures based on “what feels most affirming to the wearer. Many clients have specific sensory requirements or ethical preferences, such as vegan-friendly materials,” she says, and the Tailory prioritizes those factors for fabric selection.
As for fittings, the Tailory is deeply committed to cultivating trust between its tailors and clients, as fitting sessions can be vulnerable for anyone. “Clients can request specific tailors they feel comfortable with,” says Yang. “We have often worked with clients transitioning or going through major bodily changes, and we invite them to know that this is nothing that should deter them from getting the piece of their dreams. The Tailory is first and foremost a safe space.”
Clients can book appointments through the Tailory’s website. The studio is open Tuesday through Friday from 10am to 7pm, with appointments available by request on Saturday and Monday.
A client at Watson Ellis admires one of the suits at a fitting.
Watson Ellis
80 Eighth Ave., Suite 1010, Chelsea, Manhattan
Watson Ellis promotes bespoke suits, shirts and jackets for androgynous, nonbinary, gender-neutral, transgender and queer communities in this modern Chelsea space.
Melissa Watson Ellis started her namesake business in 2018, drawing on her diverse background, which includes custom suits and a line of sewing patterns for McCall’s. Her goal is to create formal wear for design-focused clients who can’t find clothing that fits their nonbinary identity or who don’t feel comfortable in mainstream menswear departments.
“I’ve connected with the LGBTQ+ community simply because I am passionate about gender-nonconforming clothing,” says Ellis. “I enjoy wearing traditionally masculine clothing, and I’d prefer clothing to be nonbinary. In starting Watson Ellis, I wanted to give everyone the opportunity to have clothing tailored and designed for them, with their masculine and feminine preferences in mind.”
Every initial consultation incorporates fabric discussion or even selection. Clients are presented with the lush silks and wools that Watson Ellis sources from mills in Italy and the United Kingdom. “What’s important is balancing the textile with the design,” Ellis says. “If the textile reads more masculine, we do a more feminine fit and vice versa. I particularly like using what we call liquid corduroy for a nonbinary suit.”
Once a client has a design and fabric in mind, it becomes all about the fit. “Standard women’s and men’s sizes don’t always speak to the measurements of a nonbinary client, and that can make finding clothes that fit great very challenging,” Ellis says. And because Watson Ellis wants its clients to treasure the item crafted for their big day, alterations are included from the beginning to the final fitting.
“We are New Yorkers, so being open-minded and accepting of all clients’ points of view, personal interests and unique perspectives is ingrained in us. Our approach is also highly personal,” Ellis says. “My partner and I have a lot of experience working with people from all walks of life, and I think we are simply sensitive people, so that helps.”
Clients can book appointments through the Watson Ellis website. The atelier is open by appointment only Tuesday through Saturday from 11am to 7pm.
Going through the wedding looks at Loulette Bride.
Loulette Bride
67 West St., Suite 325, Greenpoint, Brooklyn
Loulette Bride features a can’t-miss garage-style windowed entrance at the center of its otherwise unassuming red brick facade. Inside feels intimate and instantly familiar: wood beam ceilings, tiers of mirrored disco balls, lush snake plants and warm hardwood floors.
Founder Marteal Mayer started out as a designer in fast fashion, but the anonymous overproduction, wasteful practices and lack of inclusivity were draining. “Bridal is a very heteronormative space,” she says. “It was clear that queer and nonbinary folks not only felt uncomfortable going into a more traditional bridal store but these stores barely have any variety.” Many stores “only cater to the princess bride, leaving many people with the option of either a suit or a princess dress,” she says.
She was also struck by how exclusionary bridal wear can be in size and race, noting that “models were almost always size 2 white women in dresses made with mesh that could only work on a white skin tone. That is what was depicted by all bridal retailers. It immediately others anyone who does not fit that mold.”
Pivoting to launch her own bridal label, Mayer was motivated by sustainability, acceptance and personalization. Loulette’s styles are made to order in recycled and natural fabrics. Everything can be customized—into pants, gowns or jumpsuits—and made in any size to fulfill each client’s wishes, no matter how they identify.
“We celebrate that each person who comes in our door has their own spirit and love story,” says Mayer. “Weddings are a celebration of love, and love is for everyone.”
Each season, Loulette partners with a charity that supports its mission and stands with the LGBTQ+ community. “I myself am straight, but that doesn’t change how strongly I feel about inclusivity,” Mayer says.
Clients can book appointments through the Loulette Bride website. The studio is open by appointment only Wednesday through Sunday from 11am to 6pm.
