Michael Bastian ha sido durante mucho tiempo un nombre líder en ropa de hombre. Las afables colecciones del diseñador tienen una estética fácil de llevar pero sofisticada: trajes sencillos y prendas de sastrería en tejidos coloridos y ultralujosos que hablan tanto de los estilos clásicos americanos como de los vanguardistas de la ciudad de Nueva York. Semanas antes de su desfile de primavera 2016 en la primera New York Fashion Week: Para hombres, Bastian se sentó a conversar con nosotros sobre sus inspiraciones en la Costa Oeste, la energía que extrae de la ciudad de Nueva York y cómo el estilo callejero de su vecindario es más entretenido que leer una revista.
It seems like the City is experiencing a menswear renaissance. How do you see men's fashion week nurturing that?
MB:
It's the first time that the CFDA is separating out a dedicated men's week, and we are super excited because we've been asking for this for a while. It's going to throw a spotlight specifically on American menswear and American men's designers—which we haven't had in ages. When we were mixed in with the women's shows in New York, we got kind of lost. Putting together a critical mass of designers is very exciting for us. London separated out London Fashion Week Men's, and it was a huge success. We're hoping for the same success here.
What can we expect from your new collection?
MB:
This season is about Bel Air in Los Angeles. We wanted to investigate a particular West Coast glamour. People think of the West Coast and they think of surfers and beat-up casual clothes, but there's a whole idea out there that's not that, that's more dressed up. We're also introducing women's wear for the first time into our runway show, ironic for the first men's week.
Is there a show you're looking forward to seeing this season?
MB:
I have a personal rule: I don't go to any shows until I've had my own. But after my show, my good friend Luis Fernandez, designer of
, is having a presentation. I'll be going.
How would you describe the difference between men's and women's fashion weeks?
MB:
Men's is typically easier going and friendlier, let's put it that way. There are fewer of us, and we all pretty much see each other at every event. It's a tighter group than women's. With women's there are more designers at every level, many more shows. That's one of the best things about being a menswear designer in New York—there's a very tight group of us, and we help each other out when we can.
Where can we find you hanging out on a day off?
MB:
I'm lucky because I live in Greenwich Village. From 14th Street down to Washington Square Park and from University [Place] over to Seventh [Avenue], that's my zone. It doesn't have what people typically think of as a New York vibe—it's much more laid-back. There are a lot of students from NYU and the New School running around my block. I get tons of inspiration from them—I just walk out of my front door. I like seeing how they put themselves together, what they're wearing. It's better than reading a magazine, actually.
What are some of your favorite spots in the City?
MB:
There's one restaurant that's a little bit hidden but really worth searching out. It's called
, a tiny little Italian place on 10th Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues. It's the most authentic Italian food I've had in the City. They only take cash, but it's affordable, and they're very friendly. I just love it. It's my secret neighborhood place.
Semana de la Moda de Nueva York: El de los hombres tiene lugar del 13 al 16 de julio. Visite michaelbastiannyc.com para obtener más información sobre el diseñador.
