Fedora

This candlelit New York bistro is a refuge from the world, its shrouded entrance found down a few steps. The cozy, tin-ceilinged space was once a speakeasy and then a red sauce joint for decades, named for owner-chef Fedora Dorato. Gabriel Stulman (Joseph Leonard, Fairfax, Simon & the Whale) bought the place in 2010 and overhauled it, keeping the vintage feel while installing a New American menu. Look for dishes like brown butter shrimp, hemp-crusted pollock and roasted chicken with foie gras stuffing; there’s a welcoming bar scene too.