Originaire de Mexico, le chef Roberto Santibañez a grandi dans la cuisine de sa grand-mère, où il a appris que la cuisine n’était pas toujours à portée de main. Son style innovant l’a conduit à créer de nombreux restaurants mexicains contemporains à succès, dont l’un de nos restaurants préférés, la Fonda de Park Slope, qui a désormais des sites dans l’East Village de Manhattan et Chelsea également.
Santibañez est diplômé du prestigieux Cordon Bleu à Paris. Il est rentré à Mexico et a fondé trois restaurants très appréciés avant de servir quatre ans en tant que chef exécutif à Fonda San Miguel à Austin_._ Il a passé encore cinq ans en tant que directeur culinaire desrestaurants Rosa Mexicano de New York avant d’ouvrir le premier de ses restaurants Fonda locaux, en 2009.
Santibañez est également un célèbre auteur de livres de cuisine. Sa première version, New Mexican Table de Rosa, a été nominée pour un James Beard Foundation Book Award. Son deuxième, Truly Mexican , a été nommé livre de cuisine du New York Times en 2011. Food & Wine a honoré son troisième, Tacos, Tortas et Tamales, comme l’un des meilleurs livres de cuisine de 2012. Il a gracieusement pris le temps de répondre à quelques-unes de nos questions sur la scène du restaurant à New York.
Photo: Tagger Yancey IV
What was your first job cooking in New York City?
Robert Santibañez:
In 1997, I worked at Domingo’s restaurant (owned by Placido Domingo and Josefina Howard, a legend in the Mexican food world). It was amazing! In those days we use to be old school. We worked in their kitchens from 8am until midnight, and I had almost no time off. It was crazy, but I was happy.
How is NYC different from other places you’ve cooked?
RS:
It is the most competitive place in the world to run a business. Diners have hundreds of options all around them.
What are some places in NYC that inspire you as a chef?
RS:
The City itself. Every block is full of different places to eat food. I love how energetic, dynamic and constantly evolving New York’s food industry is.
What’s been your most embarrassing moment as a chef?
RS:
I was teaching a class on how to make tortillas, which I am generally good at. I couldn’t get one right that day. It took me forever to warm up to it.
What impact has the LGBTQ+ community had on the culinary world in NYC?
RS:
The community has opened fabulous restaurants with great food and sophisticated atmospheres.
Do you have any tips for people coming to eat in NYC for the first time?
RS:
Instead of the usual tourist standbys, look for the great neighborhood restaurants.
What is one dish every visitor has to try at your restaurant?
RS:
Enchiladas de mole negro—chicken enchiladas covered in a Oaxacan black mole sauce that is incredibly complex and delicious.