À 8 h 30, Patricia Field est difficile à manquer, même parmi les habitants colorés du Bowery. Entourée de ses deux caniches blancs, Sultana et Putana, elle porte un fard à paupières pailleté bleu foncé et un rouge à lèvres rouge assorti à ses cheveux hawaïens Punch, un incontournable de son look emblématique.
La légendaire créatrice de costumes, qui a remporté un Emmy Award pour son travail surSex and the City_et a été la force derrière la garde-robe nominée aux Oscars de_The Devil Wears Prada, partage_actuellement son temps entre le travail sur TV Land’s[_Younger](http://www.tvland.com/shows/younger)et la gestion de sa boutique éponyme, dont la fermeture est prévue pour le printemps 2016.
Le magasin est en activité depuis près d’un demi-siècle ; Field a installé sa première boutique dans le West Village en 1966 avant de déménager dans East 8th Street en 1971 et de se retrouver sur le Bowery en 2005 (elle a déménagé dans son magasin actuel de Bowery en 2012). Indépendamment du firmament culturel de New York, la boutique compte des célébrités comme Madonna et Kim Kardashian comme clients.
La créatrice de costumes de 74 ans se concentrera bientôt davantage sur les projets de stylisme, y compris son travail actuel pourYounger . Bien sûr, elle est à l’aise pour capturer les aspects élégants de la zéitgéiste pour la télévision : son travail sur_Sex and the City_a non seulement remporté les prix Field, mais a également changé la façon dont les femmes de New York s’habillent. Au début des années 1900, des colliers à plaque signalétique, des colliers Manolo Blahniks et des frocks exagérés se sont incorporés dans les garde-robes des femmes.
Avant_la première de la deuxième saison de_Younger le 13 janvier (le défilé est diffusé le mercredi à 22 h), Field nous a donné un aperçu de la façon dont elle habille les personnages principaux du défilé et a partagé certains de ses secrets de style (alors qu’elle fumait en chaîne Winstons !).
Photo: Shane Duckworth
How do you approach your work as a stylist?
Patricia Field:
I believe that fashion is an opportunity to be creative. How you dress yourself must express who you are. You're showing your individuality—it's you, not me. I just provide possibilities, and of course I'm happy to help, but it's very important, in order for me to do a good job for a client, [that I] understand the client. People are not paper cutout dolls. They have their own sensibilities, their own ideas.
Do you apply the same ideals with Younger?
PF:
With Younger, I'm there to support the actor. The actor is there to create a character in front of the camera. I have to find the parallel between the actor and the fictitious character, so that when we see her, it's believable, and that actor is comfortable in front of the camera believing that she can portray this character. And this also goes for clients. If you're not comfortable, I'm not serving you—and that is my job.
How did you approach dressing Sutton Foster's character, Liza, who is meant to look 25?
PF :
When Darren Star, whom I consider to be [like] my younger baby brother, called me about this project, I was like, Absolutely, I will never say no to you. Then I read the script and was like, Oh my God, how am I going to make a woman who is 40 look believable as a 25-year-old? I'm not a magician. Clothing won't sell that idea. But Sutton Foster is very wide-eyed and youthful; even the way she moves has a very youthful feeling to it. I could only take it so far, but she brought the substance and I trimmed it.
What about Debi Mazar's character, Maggie?
PF:
I knew Debi Mazar. She grew up in Queens and [I used to see her] in the East Village [in the early '80s]. She was part of that crowd; she worked at the Mudd Club. Through the years we have kept in touch, but finally crossed paths when Darren cast her in Younger. Her character is a lesbian artist, the best old friend of Liza [Sutton Foster]. Debi is so funny and expressive—she's unforgettable. Our cast is major, and I credit Darren Star with that because he's brilliant with casting. He cast Sex and the City.
And Miriam Shor, who plays Diana, the boss?
PF:
Miriam is a comedic actress, a professional theater actress. I've always found theater actors to be superb. When I started putting these exaggerated pieces of jewelry on her, she was like, Yes! She uses them as props. The other day before going on camera she said, "I need a bracelet," so she put on this big cuff, sitting at her desk with her elbow on top of it, working this bracelet. That's a professional. She knew she needed a bracelet because she already saw how she was going to do the scene. I respect professionalism highly. Speaking of which, I didn't mention Hilary Duff. I'm so happy for her. I'm getting so much positive feedback about her in this role. So kudos to Hilary, who plays Liza's best friend in the office.
Do you have any favorite places you like to shop for those pieces?
PF:
For Sutton's character—and for all the main characters—I shop in a variety of places. Of course, there's my shop; it's very edgy. A portion of the clothing in my shop I select carefully. You can go to the edge, but you can't fall off. It always has to be believable and help to tell the story. Aside from my shop, there are the consignment stores owned by my friend Ina Bernstein. She has about six, and one is around the corner. At the beginning of the season I go to every single one. Models and celebrities who get clothes and don't wear them bring them there, so a lot of stuff is in brand-new condition. The prices are great, and it's not what you see in the magazines today or in the chain stores. Another one of my favorite haunts is Century 21. You never know what you're going to find, and you know the prices are going to be good. We also shop in Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys, and the high-street stores like Zara, Topshop and H&M. It's a mixture, a hybrid. It's not so much about the individual piece or the designer; it's about the styling and how you put it together.
Photo: Will Steacy
Your work on Sex and the City won many awards and accolades. Did you think that what you were doing would have such a monumental effect on fashion?
PF:
I started Sex and the City like I would any other project: optimistic and happy to do my best. Of course I wanted it be a success, but I couldn't imagine that it would be a success like no other. The buzz started at the end of the first season, and when we went back [it was like there was an explosion of it during] the second season. It was an experience like no other I ever had. It opened up a lot of opportunities for me, good ones because I developed a fashion dialogue with press through the show obviously. I found myself in a beautiful position. I can walk down the street in Tokyo, São Paulo, wherever I travel, and women come up to me: "You're Patricia Field, I love Sex and the City, I love you. It's wonderful, you inspire me."
What suggestions would you give a visitor coming to New York City for the very first time?
PF:
If you've never been to my shop and maybe never been to this area [NoHo/East Village], it's a young area. NYU is here, Cooper Union is here. This has always been a younger area, so it's busy in the nighttime and the daytime. If you were visiting the area and visiting my shop, you might want to have lunch or grab a coffee before you come in. This area has also grown a lot in the past 10 years, and as a result there are many fine restaurants and places for a libation. There's Saxon + Parole and Il Buco. I go there all the time. When I used to live here [Ed.: she's now on the Lower East Side] I was in Il Buco at least two or three times a week. It has the best Italian food—organic, local and well curated. There's Think Coffee and this Irish pub next door, Sláinte, which my [employees] are always going to after work. Across the street is DBGB, which specializes in grilled food, including sausages from all around the world. If you want to stay in this area, there are a lot of hotels [to choose from]. The Bowery Hotel, The Standard East Village. The West Village and Meatpacking District are nice, but the East Village is the youngest and most energetic area.
Photo: Noe DeWitt
This area has changed a lot since the turn of the century. Do you think it has retained its vibe?
PF:
I mean, [40 years ago] this area was synonymous with punk and rock. Way back in the day at the turn of the [20th] century, this was the Theater District, [but] when Times Square got built up, this area went down. The artists moved in because rents were low, property values were down and the spaces were large. So artists, musicians, painters were here.
There used to be live music venues in the neighborhood too.
PF:
There was a world-famous rock bar here called CBGB. The Ramones started there. As the neighborhood started to change in the early '00s and CBGB closed, [the designer] John Varvatos took over the space, but he left its heart and soul. It also inspired a whole new idea for his collection.
What do you love about NYC and specifically about being a New Yorker?
PF:
What I love about NYC after all these years is what I loved about NYC many years ago. This city has a culture that is very unique. It's a doorway to the world; as such we live in a cultural Garden of Eden. You walk down the street and in one block you hear five languages, you have visuals and sounds of all these cultures. It's educational and inspiring to live in and experience NYC—that's what keeps me here.
Photo: Will Steacy