Michael Bastian est depuis longtemps un leader du prêt-à-porter masculin. Les collections du designer affable ont une esthétique à la fois élégante et facile à porter : des costumes épurés et des pièces de tailleur dans des tissus colorés ultra luxueux qui évoquent à la fois les styles Americana classiques et branchés de New York. Des semaines avant son défilé printemps 2016 à la toute première Fashion Week de New York : Bastian, homme, s’est assis pour discuter avec nous de ses inspirations sur la côte ouest, de l’énergie qu’il puise dans New York et de la façon dont le style urbain dans son quartier est plus divertissant que de lire un magazine.
It seems like the City is experiencing a menswear renaissance. How do you see men's fashion week nurturing that?
MB:
It's the first time that the CFDA is separating out a dedicated men's week, and we are super excited because we've been asking for this for a while. It's going to throw a spotlight specifically on American menswear and American men's designers—which we haven't had in ages. When we were mixed in with the women's shows in New York, we got kind of lost. Putting together a critical mass of designers is very exciting for us. London separated out London Fashion Week Men's, and it was a huge success. We're hoping for the same success here.
What can we expect from your new collection?
MB:
This season is about Bel Air in Los Angeles. We wanted to investigate a particular West Coast glamour. People think of the West Coast and they think of surfers and beat-up casual clothes, but there's a whole idea out there that's not that, that's more dressed up. We're also introducing women's wear for the first time into our runway show, ironic for the first men's week.
Is there a show you're looking forward to seeing this season?
MB:
I have a personal rule: I don't go to any shows until I've had my own. But after my show, my good friend Luis Fernandez, designer of
, is having a presentation. I'll be going.
How would you describe the difference between men's and women's fashion weeks?
MB:
Men's is typically easier going and friendlier, let's put it that way. There are fewer of us, and we all pretty much see each other at every event. It's a tighter group than women's. With women's there are more designers at every level, many more shows. That's one of the best things about being a menswear designer in New York—there's a very tight group of us, and we help each other out when we can.
Where can we find you hanging out on a day off?
MB:
I'm lucky because I live in Greenwich Village. From 14th Street down to Washington Square Park and from University [Place] over to Seventh [Avenue], that's my zone. It doesn't have what people typically think of as a New York vibe—it's much more laid-back. There are a lot of students from NYU and the New School running around my block. I get tons of inspiration from them—I just walk out of my front door. I like seeing how they put themselves together, what they're wearing. It's better than reading a magazine, actually.
What are some of your favorite spots in the City?
MB:
There's one restaurant that's a little bit hidden but really worth searching out. It's called
, a tiny little Italian place on 10th Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues. It's the most authentic Italian food I've had in the City. They only take cash, but it's affordable, and they're very friendly. I just love it. It's my secret neighborhood place.
Semaine de la mode de New York : La fête masculine a lieu du 13 au 16 juillet. Rendez-vous sur michaelbastiannyc.com pour en savoir plus sur le designer.