Nascido na Cidade do México, o chef Roberto Santibañez cresceu na cozinha de sua avó, onde aprendeu que cozinhar nem sempre precisa ser feito pelo livro. Seu estilo inovador o levou a criar muitos restaurantes mexicanos contemporâneos bem-sucedidos, incluindo um de nossos favoritos, o Park Slope’s Fonda, que agora também tem locais em East Village e Chelsea, em Manhattan.
Santibañez se formou no prestigioso Le Cordon Bleu em Paris. Ele voltou para casa na Cidade do México e fundou três restaurantes altamente aclamados antes de servir quatro anos como chef executivo na Fonda San Miguel, em Austin_._ Ele passou mais cinco anos como diretor de culinária dosrestaurantes Rosa Mexicano de Nova York antes de abrir o primeiro de seus restaurantes Fonda locais, em 2009.
Santibañez também é um famoso autor de livros de receitas. Seu primeiro lançamento, o New Mexican Table de Rosa, foi indicado para o prêmio James Beard Foundation Book Award. Seu segundo, o Truly Mexican , foi nomeado um notável livro de receitas do New York Times em 2011. A Food & Wine homenageou seu terceiro, Tacos, Tortas e Tamales, como um dos melhores livros de receitas de 2012. Ele gentilmente dedicou um tempo para responder a algumas de nossas perguntas sobre a cena do restaurante em NYC.
Photo: Tagger Yancey IV
What was your first job cooking in New York City?
Robert Santibañez:
In 1997, I worked at Domingo’s restaurant (owned by Placido Domingo and Josefina Howard, a legend in the Mexican food world). It was amazing! In those days we use to be old school. We worked in their kitchens from 8am until midnight, and I had almost no time off. It was crazy, but I was happy.
How is NYC different from other places you’ve cooked?
RS:
It is the most competitive place in the world to run a business. Diners have hundreds of options all around them.
What are some places in NYC that inspire you as a chef?
RS:
The City itself. Every block is full of different places to eat food. I love how energetic, dynamic and constantly evolving New York’s food industry is.
What’s been your most embarrassing moment as a chef?
RS:
I was teaching a class on how to make tortillas, which I am generally good at. I couldn’t get one right that day. It took me forever to warm up to it.
What impact has the LGBTQ+ community had on the culinary world in NYC?
RS:
The community has opened fabulous restaurants with great food and sophisticated atmospheres.
Do you have any tips for people coming to eat in NYC for the first time?
RS:
Instead of the usual tourist standbys, look for the great neighborhood restaurants.
What is one dish every visitor has to try at your restaurant?
RS:
Enchiladas de mole negro—chicken enchiladas covered in a Oaxacan black mole sauce that is incredibly complex and delicious.