Sunken Hundred

There's more to Welsh food than cheese-clogged rarebit, a fact owner Illtyd Barrett holds dear to at this Cobble Hill spot, named for Wales’ folk legend of the sunken kingdom of Cantre’r Gwaelod. Partnering with his brother Dominic and executive chef Tom Coughlan (Txikito, La Vara, Seamstress), the proud Welshman touts his home country by placing mythological artwork and photos of a petrified Welsh forest throughout the 50-seat pub, which also sports a Wales-specific lending library. In the kitchen, Coughlan borrows and tweaks recipes from Barretts’ mother, such as steamed mussels with brandy-soaked pork belly, roasted hake in a tomato-butter sauce, and meatballs with peas in onion gravy. House cocktails, available at a 700-year-old hemlock-topped bar that Barrett handcrafted himself, remain on theme with options like the Seithennyn, made with house-made seaweed oil and kelp bitters.