Civetta

The couple behind the Upper East Side’s popular Sfoglia—Ron and Colleen Suhanosky—cloned much of that menu here, with two dozen choices of antipasto (like deep-fried scamorza cheese), homemade pasta (gnocchi with clams and saffron), fish (grilled branzino) and the Tuscan specialty “chicken under a brick.” Candelabras, a stone fireplace, an open kitchen and dark wood detail warm up the space. The coat-check booth up front looks like a confessional, and downstairs is a lounge where you can indulge in guilty pleasures.