Drunken Dumpling

Line up before noon at the no-frills Drunken Dumpling to snag a beret-size Chinese dumpling called the XL XLB, filled with a steaming mixture of chicken, pork and vegetable broth. Its $11.75 price tag reflects the cost of using mostly local ingredients, as owner Yuan Lee does. His mother, Qihui Guan, is unstoppable in the open kitchen, where she pinches together delicious pork buns and organic vegetable potstickers. Her giant dumplings sell out within an hour or so of opening, but after that it’s easy to find contentment in the rest of the menu.