K'ook

An East Village block that used to be known as Curry Row has detoured into more of a Japanese and Korean byway. K'ook, serving both traditional and modern fusion Korean food, is a prime stop. Chef-partner Felicia Park is a lovely, welcoming presence, making kimchi, bibimbap, bulgogi and kalbi the way she learned from her parents (behind Han Joo in Flushing). Soft, seasoned pork belly that's braised for three hours and paired with salad greens is a must-have dish. Park is assisted in the kitchen by Dantae Yong Choi, who is in charge of the modern fusion part of the menu: stuffed hot peppers,deep-fried Scotch eggs with pork and kimchi and the like. The low-ceilinged, basement space is cozy and low-key, a good place for quiet conversation.