Kossar's Bagels and Bialys

Kossar's has been producing bialys—traditional Polish rolls with diced onions in the depressed center—since the 1930s, but it's only been making bagels since 1998. Despite being a late bloomer, Kossar's manages to craft bagels with the same TLC it puts into its bialys. The dough is hand-rolled and proofed for 24 hours before boiling and baking. The pumpernickel is almost black, while other flavors—poppy, sesame, everything—are dense and rich with a glossy sheen. A renovation a few years back brightened up the shop and added bialy and bagel sandwiches to the mix; there are additional baked goods as well as coffee and juice.