Pok Pok Ny

Pok Pok Ny feels like a frontier depot, huddled in a developing Brooklyn waterfront area where you'd expect to see more longshoremen than Portlandia-style cool hunters. They're all here for Andy Ricker's bona fide Southeast Asian pub and street food, the lens mostly focused on Thailand. There's spicy green papaya salad, grilled pork neck rubbed with garlic, coriander root and black pepper, and a Thai night market specialty called hoi thawt, consisting of crispy broken crepes with steamed Prince Edward Island mussels, eggs, garlic chives and bean sprouts. His celebrated fish-sauce chicken wings are also on hand. The snug bar in the wood-paneled dining room features whiskey flights and drinking vinegars (better than they sound) and in back is a tented garden garlanded with hanging plants and colored lights. A great drinking dessert is the whiskey soda float, homemade bourbon ice cream submerged in cola and topped with amarena cherries.