Runner & Stone

Gowanus is a compelling historic Brooklyn neighborhood that's been making a comeback lately; its pioneering residents giving rise to interesting restaurants like Littleneck, The Pines and Runner & Stone. The latter is near the site of the first tidewater gristmill in the City and named for the two stones used to grind grain: the runner stone and the base stone. As it happens, the fresh-baked bread here is as good as it gets, mainly due to head baker Peter Endriss, late of Per Se and Bouchon Bakery, among other pastry palaces. Executive chef Chris Pizzulli (ex-Blue Ribbon) lovingly makes his own pasta, cures duck pastrami and produces the type of roasted chicken, market fish and grilled rib eye that will make you want to be a regular. The contemporary, welcoming space is good for groups—and do take note of the bunker-like cement walls craftily fashioned of old flour sacks.