Underground Pizza

This no-frills, split-level pizza joint is a joy to find in the Wall Street area. It might not look like much (little appears to have changed since it opened in 1979) and the premade slices look wan under the lights, but once they're shoveled into a piping hot oven for a reheating, they gloriously come to life. Bountiful strands of cheese ooze from the sturdy yet pliant crust. Specialties include bacon and jalapeño and square cuts of grandma pie, loaded with three cheeses, tomato sauce and fried garlic. It's open for breakfast (when pies are topped with eggs and cheese, bacon or sausage) and right through the day until 9pm. Maps and menu items tout a Sicilian connection, but Underground Pizza is entirely old-school New York City.