Chao Chao

At the first crunchy bite of a spring roll bundled in a lettuce leaf and stuffed with glass noodles, pork, carrots and shiitake mushrooms, it’s evident Chao Chao is not just another East Village Vietnamese restaurant. (Meals here end in regret, with patrons knowing future spring rolls elsewhere will pale in comparison.) Egg noodles tossed with beef cheeks, coconut flakes, scallions and shrimp paste are another eye-opener from Stephan Brezinsky, the executive chef and co-owner along with his mother, Kimxuan Brezinsky. She grew up primarily in Saigon and inspired him to start cooking at a tender age; the crazy-good spring rolls are her recipe.