Suki

Only a handful of people can cram inside Suki—and they do, for Kelly Cho’s Japanese-style curries. Cho is a perfectionist, making her own butter for roux, the curry’s foundation. The flavor is deep and balanced with a tinge of sweetness. Spice levels are customized from 1 to 5; medium leaves the tongue coated with heat that doesn’t sting. Pair a bowl of it with pounded, breaded pork or chicken katsu, shrimp ramen or udon noodles with pork belly. This is Cho’s first restaurant, which she opened in 2018.